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Re: staining in the center of a ziatype (long post)
Jeffery,
> If you were using Crane's (cover-90), maybe try Arches Platine, Bienfang
> 360, or Crane's fluorescent white. All these papers are brighter than
> Crane's (cover-90). Each paper will provide a different look.
>
I'll put those on my list.
> >...
> > > Another thing to check related to the highlights is if the print has
> > > been fully cleared.
> > What are the parameters to insure the print has cleared? ...
>
> A clearing test and procedures can be found in my Guide on my web site
> (link below).
Okay I'll review that.
> First, what you call a Zia is a rip-off of the Zia name given to one of
> the many Pt/Pd process variations.
> Second, you can believe anything you wish. Read Chapter 3 of my Guide.
> To get all of the black available one must give enough exposure to the
> print. For optimum results, the negative should be made to accommodate
> the materials used in printing. Anyone can make an inferior print, only
> a master can intentionally create an inferior print.
>
Good there is still hope then that I may make an acceptable print one of
these days.
> Simply coat 6-6, 7-7, 8-8, 9-9, 10-10 and determine where
> any improvement ceases. If the additional liquid becomes a problem to
> coat, then either increase solution strengths or quasi muti-coat (in
> Guide).
That sounds simple enough. Unfortunately for me I won't be able to print for
at least 2-3 weeks due to upcoming travel. I'll put that on my list as well.
> For calibration purposes yes.
> > P.S. I don't know if it will help but I can put some of these prints on
a
> > web page for examination
>
But once print nervana is reached one can print by the numbers to make
duplicates. Right?
> This can demonstrate your subject mater, but will NEVER show what the
> prints look like.
I was only suggesting that the clearing or lack of clearing may be visible
with a scaned image.
Thanks,
Don Bryant