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Re: staining in the center of a ziatype (long post)

Don Bryant wrote:
> 
> > One way to
> > brighten highlights is to use a brighter paper.
> 
> Any suggestions?

If you were using Crane's (cover-90), maybe try Arches Platine, Bienfang
360, or Crane's fluorescent white.  All these papers are brighter than
Crane's (cover-90).  Each paper will provide a different look.

>...
> > Another thing to check related to the highlights is if the print has
> > been fully cleared.
> What are the parameters to insure the print has cleared? ...

A clearing test and procedures can be found in my Guide on my web site
(link below).

> ...
> > Exposure should be that to print unexposed film as black as with no
> > film.
> I thought that since Zia-types are a POP that print exposure was judged by
> inspecting the density of the highlights.

First, what you call a Zia is a rip-off of the Zia name given to one of
the many Pt/Pd process variations.
Second, you can believe anything you wish.  Read Chapter 3 of my Guide. 
To get all of the black available one must give enough exposure to the
print.  For optimum results, the negative should be made to accommodate
the materials used in printing.  Anyone can make an inferior print, only
a master can intentionally create an inferior print.

> ...(This is likely if you mixed your solutions according to The
> > New Platinum Print.  I have found these mixtures to be too weak.)
> 
> So if I am currently using say 6 LiPd and 6 AFO then I should say use an 8-8
> mix?

And, it must be applied to the same area.  Then this would give you a
30% increase in chemistry per area.  You must test for the threshold
according to your own preferences (see coating sections of my Guide for
direction).  Simply coat 6-6, 7-7, 8-8, 9-9, 10-10 and determine where
any improvement ceases.  If the additional liquid becomes a problem to
coat, then either increase solution strengths or quasi muti-coat (in
Guide).

> 
> > The "wet" look can be partially simulated by an overcoat of plain gum or
> > acrylic.
> Interesting. Will the print surface have a similar appearance to a silver
> gelatin glossy print?

No.  Laura Gilpin (for one) overcoated many of her Platinum prints with
gum.  The Center for Creative Photography in Tucson, AZ has many of her
prints like this as might other places.  I have used acrylic fixative
spray on Pt/Pd prints used in folding screens.  Several thin layers can
be built up.  If desired a final coat with gloss can be applied (only
after several other layers have been built up as the paper surface will
not hold a gloss).

> 
> > Do not be surprised if the steps end up looking different for different
> > images.  Proper tones should be based on the image and not the steps.
> 
> I thought printing a step wedge provides an objective method of analyzing
> the contrast of the emulsion mix and is not intended to guide the
> interpretation of the negative.

For calibration purposes yes.  For selecting contrast, materials, tonal
values, interpreting the image, NO.  Printing should be done with the
mind (the eye, the heart,...), not a step wedge or densitometer.  The
control of the negative, and printing materials can control the contrast
which must be selected for each image and even each print as images may
be printed several ways.

> P.S. I don't know if it will help but I can put some of these prints on a
> web page for examination

This can demonstrate your subject mater, but will NEVER show what the
prints look like.  A visual interest area may be exagerated and placed
on you site (before and after or with and without shots) to help explain
somthing.  Just make sure the difference is clearly displayed on the
monitor and can be sent to others that way.

-- 
Jeffrey D. Mathias
http://home.att.net/~jeffrey.d.mathias/