From: Judy Seigel (jseigel@panix.com)
Date: 02/24/01-11:26:19 PM Z
On Sat, 24 Feb 2001, shannon stoney wrote:
> .... Issue 5 of
> Post-Factory has some instructions--maybe that's all I need?
Shannon, I hope this doesn't come across as, um, arrogant -- but
that's all there is, there isn't any more.
Nor have I seen any extant book (& I think I've seen them all) with as
much, and that's even COUNTING the error & nonsense as if it were info
(for instance Langford who says cyanotype isn't archival because you can't
FIX it !!!!!!!, tho I seem to recall that as only one page, mercifully.)
You may not have realized the P-F cyanotype coverage runs from pages 29
thru 41 -- thirteen large pages in small type, and no artsy white space
for half of it, as some do which I will not mention. Separate sections on
mixing/coating, 3 p. on paper for cyano, another on exposure, etc. Perhaps
overly discursive, in which case start with just p. 32 and 33 -- which
alone have about twice as much info & instruction as .... wherever.
Having made this claim, I checked "Coming into Focus" (Chronicle). It has
scant 9 pages on traditional cyanotype, each with relatively little type
and BIG white space. Still, look at if if you can, and you might want to
own it. There's coverage of many processes, some such as collodion &
albumen by reigning experts, and handsome repro, including excellent
repros of handsome cyanotypes, two by Sam Wang and one on fabric by Carol
Adelman (to all of which the printer has done wonderful justice), very
inspirational. I haven't read the cyano (or any other) chapter however,
and think I better not, because glancing through just now found a
statement I KNOW is absolutely wrong -- and I have enough problems.
Later on the book has 5 pages on the New Cyanotype (about half of which
are, again, white space) with 2 repros, but these, truth to tell, don't
seem quite so inspirational. However, presumably you could save buying the
Ware book with this info. But note: New Cyano uses ferric am oxalate,
quite a bit more poisonous than old cyano ingredients.
I don't, BTW, necessarily *fault* the white space in this particular book,
which has nearly 300 pages and, as noted, beautiful repro, so certainly
your money's worth. The sticker on mine says list price $35 (tho I got it
cheap when Harvey Zucker was closing out). On the other hand, after
you've enjoyed the pictures, it's thick & heavy, not easy to lug into
studio. Maybe photocopy working instructions to mess up? Well I digress,
sorry...
As for a kit -- if you've never mixed chemicals and feel more comfortable
starting with a kit -- do what you have to do to break that first barrier.
That's the important thing... But odds are one kit to make 1 or 2 litres
of working solution will cost what a pound of fe am cit & another of
potass ferricyanide would cost -- which is to say a lifetime supply of
cyanotype. And you still have to get over the hump to do your own mixing
-- kit is essentially a delaying tactic. (Note also there's dry measure
for cyanotype in P-F page 32. Cyano isn't critical, so no need to get a
gram scale.)
On the other hand, Shannon maybe you SHOULD get a kit ! If it's got more
info than P-F (and no mistakes !)... I'll spring for it.
> Also: if I figure out how to develop a negative for cyanotypes, will the
> same negative also work for palladium printing?
It should. I think the negatives are or can be same/similar, and there's
in any event a fair amount of latitude in cyanotype by paper choice (more
I believe than in palladium). So you might start with a negative targeted
for palladium and then choose cyano paper accordingly (see cyano "contrast
controls," p.35, also papers by contrast and surface for cyano. p.39-40).
That said, if you think you want to do New Cyanotype, you might get Ware's
book... Although only a portion of the (small) book is actual process
instruction (and I take BIG exception to a couple of assertions there),
the history of the process and its invention are extremely interesting,
and very well written. A worthy addition to any photo library -- but NO
pictures).
However, and here I think others would be more knowledgeable -- I get the
impression that buying New Cyanotype by kit is (also) fraught. The
emulsion does NOT keep well in storage (unlike old cyano which keeps
indefinitely) and is likely to be different from batch to batch.
And finally a quote from friend who said I'd left out one thing, to wit:
"How blue can you get babe?
The answer's right here in my heart."
best,
Judy
.................................................................
| Judy Seigel, Editor >
| World Journal of Post-Factory Photography > "HOW-TO and WHY"
| info@post-factory.org >
| <http://rmp.opusis.com/postfactory/postfactory.html>
.................................................................
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b30 : 03/06/01-04:55:40 PM Z CST