From: Judy Seigel (jseigel@panix.com)
Date: 01/24/01-11:24:48 PM Z
On Wed, 24 Jan 2001, Don Bryant wrote:
> ... But I seem to have problems getting an
> even coating with cyano regardless of the paper. When coating with a hake
> brush I get streaking.
Don, the only possible explanation is that you're under a spell, because
otherwise cyano is almost impossible to "streak."
Here's how you break the spell:
Throw out hake brush for cyano -- feh ! Get nice soft foam applicator,
about 3 " wide, the kind with the wooden handle, about 50 cents at
hardware store. Put a dropperful of distilled water on it, then work in
with fingers, not enough water to dilute the emulsion, just enough to
slightly dampen the foam.
Now pour your A&B solution together into a dish (I use a desert dish from
Alaska airlines, bought as surplus) just wide enough to take the
applicator & slosh or stir, then dip applicator a bit til it's nicely
loaded. Then, holding applicator straight up so just tip touches the
paper, QUICKLY stroke left to right (dipping again as needed), then top to
bottom, then again left to right. Should be enough. But a 4th crossing for
good measure is fine, too.
Note, by the way, that a row of strokes must begin always at same edge,
that is, don't do back and forth in continuous delivery. Rather, lift the
applicator & return quickly to starting side for each new stroke. That way
pressure will be even in each strip. Back-and-forth can give a striped
effect because you press differently at beginning of stroke than you do on
end of stroke.
However, if you try to do this by buglight or safelight -- a pox on you,
streaks will haunt you forever. Only way is by low room light or tungsten,
or truth to tell, fluorescent if it's a ways away. Doesn't matter a
witch's whisker. Dry in the dark and it's all the same.
When it's coated, angle paper -- or angle your head -- into the light so
you can see reflection of the wet. You can now tell if it's even. If you
see puddling, discharge the applicator a bit on edge of dish and go over
once more to mop up. If you see bare spots and no puddling, dip a bit more
from the dish & cover again. If you see puddling *and* bare spots, you
probably can redistribute without redipping. (Puddles tend to wash off &
leave white blobs, tasty in borders, less so in person's head, as
explained P-F #5.)
As far as puddle pusher for classic cyano goes -- diabolical. Bury it at
the crossroads at midnight.
One other thing: What paper are you using? An absorbent unsized waterleaf?
Well, even that, if coated generously, should be fine.
PS. My studio has RH of the Mohabi desert (in the low 30s), does nothing
to coating that I've noticed.
Judy
.................................................................
| Judy Seigel, Editor >
| World Journal of Post-Factory Photography > "HOW-TO and WHY"
| info@post-factory.org >
| <http://rmp.opusis.com/postfactory/postfactory.html>
.................................................................
When using a puddle pusher I get puddling on one side
> of the print and thinning on the other . All of these problems seem to be
> caused by the paper absorbing the emulsion faster than I can move it around.
> In particular coating for an 8x10 negative is quite problematic. The RH in
> my coating area has been quite load and may be causing the paper to suck the
> emulsion in too rapidly. Thus my curiosity about the use of gum.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Don Bryant
>
>
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b30 : 02/05/01-11:45:23 AM Z CST