From: Christina Z. Anderson (zphoto@montana.net)
Date: 06/01/02-07:52:49 AM Z
Since there seemed to be several list members who were going to test
mordancage out, I thought I would share another tip or two I have found out.
I searched thru patents on the reversal/bleach process (6 or 7 in all) and
found that one mentioned something about "it is best to heat (the film, it
was talking about) to 180 degrees before doing the process". So I figured
(for some unknown reason my mind worked backwards of reality) that he meant
it would make the film *not* slough off too much, in essence, hardening the
gelatin layer to make it more stable, perhaps. I thought this might have
ramifications with a print, so i tested a print (or 4 or 5) to see if maybe
this was the unknown variable that made some of my prints mordancage not
mordancage easily. What I found was that the side that I dry mount pressed
to 200 or so degrees actually mordancaged *more easily* than the side that
was *not* pressed. I took the same print and pressed half of it. I guess
that is why scientists test hypotheses :) Of course NOW this makes sense,
because in the bromoil process it is recommended to dry mount press the
dried print before doing the process, or heat it up somehow.
Another patent shared this tip: in order to remove the chemicals and
neutralize the print to a non acid state, immerse the print in a solution of
one part sodium bicarbonate to 16 parts water for 1 minute and then rinse.
A third thing: yellowing is worse if chemicals are not rinsed well
between the copper chloride bleach process and redevelopment. So rinse
well.
Chris
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b30 : 07/02/02-10:33:22 AM Z CST