From: Mark Malloy (marklmalloy@earthlink.net)
Date: 06/02/02-11:50:55 AM Z
> Since there seemed to be several list members who were going to test
> mordancage out, I thought I would share another tip or two I have found out.
> I searched thru patents on the reversal/bleach process (6 or 7 in all) and
> found that one mentioned something about "it is best to heat (the film, it
> was talking about) to 180 degrees before doing the process". So I figured
> (for some unknown reason my mind worked backwards of reality) that he meant
> it would make the film *not* slough off too much, in essence, hardening the
> gelatin layer to make it more stable, perhaps. I thought this might have
> ramifications with a print, so i tested a print (or 4 or 5) to see if maybe
> this was the unknown variable that made some of my prints mordancage not
> mordancage easily. What I found was that the side that I dry mount pressed
> to 200 or so degrees actually mordancaged *more easily* than the side that
> was *not* pressed. I took the same print and pressed half of it. I guess
> that is why scientists test hypotheses :) Of course NOW this makes sense,
> because in the bromoil process it is recommended to dry mount press the
> dried print before doing the process, or heat it up somehow.
> Another patent shared this tip: in order to remove the chemicals and
> neutralize the print to a non acid state, immerse the print in a solution of
> one part sodium bicarbonate to 16 parts water for 1 minute and then rinse.
> A third thing: yellowing is worse if chemicals are not rinsed well
> between the copper chloride bleach process and redevelopment. So rinse
> well.
> Chris
>
Another tip;
Paper choice has effect on veiling. Agfa sloughs of easily; Ilford less so;
and Forte works best with longer period in acid, followed by rinse, then
return to acid again. This will raise your emulsion.
Best of luck!
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