Re: Mordancage Process

From: Christina Z. Anderson ^lt;zphoto@montana.net>
Date: 12/06/03-08:22:12 AM Z
Message-id: <001d01c3bc04$60722410$cc08980c@your6bvpxyztoq>

Scott,
     I second checking out Jon's website (or Unblinkingeye.com) for my
article on mordancage. That article will (hopefully) soon be published in
PhotoVision's Jan/Feb issue with some new images that I have been producing
here in grad school.

     I have discovered some fun stuff about mordancage now that I have
concentrated on it more and these are a few points that are not in my
article. for one, if you get in a pinch, use a bottle of regular hydrogen
peroxide from the drug store. It is 3% which is really low, but if you add
your copper chloride directly to that with no added water you can use it--in
other words, per liter of the drug store hy per add 15 grams of copper
chloride which is about a tablespoon. Then add your acetic acid; if you
don't have glacial, you can fudge with vinegar or stop bath. The point is
to keep the acidity of the solution low enough for it to work, so you can
keep adjusting that as you go along. See how easy it can be? Get your
bottle of hy per, dump some copper chloride and vinegar in there, and go.
But if you can, get 20v because the hydrogen peroxide is what does the
disintegrating. Don't bother with the stronger stuff; it is not necessary,
really--20v works just fine.

     Next, the paper that works hands down incredibly well (I've used
Bergger, Forte, and Ilford) is Ilford. All types, fiber and RC. It is a
charm. I have difficulty with Bergger for some reason, but all this means
is that I bleach, develop, and then bleach and redevelop again, instead of
just doing it one time. Unfortunately you have more trouble with stain that
way. So for your first attempt, Ilford is great. It disintegrates in a
minute or two max.

     Third, I have not put some images back in the developer and then
exposed them in sunlight. You get some really intriguing tones that way, as
there is rehalogenized silver after the bleaching process. You can even
paint on fixer at some point with a brush and you'll get even more color
variations. I would suggest scanning these and filing them on a CD rom
because they will change over time--it certainly isn't archival.

     That should get you started with some ideas; I have lots more :)
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Wainer" <smwbmp@starpower.net>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2003 6:12 AM
Subject: Mordancage Process

> Hi all,
>
> I've been thinking of trying the Mordancage process for some time and just
started gathering the materials for it. In my search for 30% hydrogen
peroxide I came across "Clairoxide" by Clairol which is sold 4 strengths;
10, 20, 30, and 40 volume. My question is whether volume and percent are the
same thing; i.e, 30 volume = 30%? Looking at the bottle, it lists hydrogen
peroxide and water as it's ingredents.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Scott Wainer
> smwbmp@starpower.net
>
Received on Sat Dec 6 08:22:57 2003

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