Re: New Cyanotype

Hi Thom:

You can find information on the New Cyanotype at Mike Ware's website:
http://www.mikeware.demon.co.uk/.

As a most "general" rule, I would try starting with normal exposure and
increase development by 50-75%.

I make enlarged negatives either conventionally or digitally from those
designed to be printed with silver gelatin.

Hope this helps,

Scott

----- Original Message -----
From: "Thom Mitchell" <tjmitch@ix.netcom.com>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2004 8:10 AM
Subject: Re: New Cyanotype

> I have a few simple questions. Where can you find the formula for the new
> cyanotype? I'll be making in camera negs for the process and I do not have
a
> densitometer, so how thick or thin should ones negs be to make a decent
> image on cyanotype. Normal exposure and processing? 1 stop over-exposed? 2
> stops over-exposed? 1 stop under-exposed? etc. I ask this merely to
> ascertain a starting point from which to begin my own testing and possibly
> shorten the cycle of frustration. Thanks, Thom
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scott Wainer" <swphoto@verizon.net>
> To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
> Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2004 5:36 PM
> Subject: Re: New Cyanotype
>
>
> Hi Loris-
>
> I use the New Cyanotype formula exclusively.
>
> You will notice that there is very little "bleeding" in the wash when
> compared to traditional formulas.
>
> I have found that it is indeed paper sensitive, but that can be overcome
by
> the addition of a few drops of 40% citric acid. I use 3-4 drops per ml of
> sensitizer and have been able to print on anything from Stonehenge to
> butcher's paper.
>
> You will also find that it has a longer scale than traditional formulas
and
> that the scale is further increased with the addition of citric acid to
help
> with the paper.
>
> As for Dmax, depending upon my negatives and length of exposure, I have
> gotten every thing from a pale baby blue to a very dark Royal Blue. I
> couldn't get that deep of a blue even with 2 coats of a traditional
formula.
>
> With respect to the Ammonium Irom Oxalate, I had some that I assume went
> bad; it turned from a greenish color to a light brown and turned the
mixture
> blue when made.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Scott
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Loris Medici" <loris_medici@yahoo.com>
> To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
> Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2004 5:37 AM
> Subject: New Cyanotype
>
>
> > I will prepare/mix "new cyanotype" this weekend. Any remarks on what can
> > go wrong or what should I pay attention - from those who did it before -
> > will be appreciated. BTW, I keep Ammonium Iron(III) Oxalate in B&S's
> > original packaging and not in dark. Is there any possibility of
> > "fogging" (because it says light sensitive)? I would also like to
> > receive remarks/suggestions (about paper, printing/exposing,
> > processing/clearing ect.) from people who had made the transition from
> > classic cyanotype to new cyanotype. I'm expecting a better dmax compared
> > to double coated classic cyanotype - do you find this possible?
> >
> > TIA,
> > Loris.
> >
> >
>
>
Received on Sat May 15 09:05:02 2004