Re: Cyanotype

Thanks, Sam- I suspect it is the pyro stained negatives are the problem-
but; I did notice that the hydrogen peroxide didnot work in the wash. I will
try the non stained negatives and see what happens...now; I have to find a
step tablet.
Susan
----- Original Message -----
From: "sam wang" <stwang@clemson.edu>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 12:46 PM
Subject: Re: Cyanotype

> Susan,
>
> Step tablets are quite colorless and could tell you whether a non-pyro
> negative would print fast enough on your emulsion. Plus it would tell
> you what kind of negatives, what density ranges, would print best. Etc.
>
> From my experience, even a little stain makes pyro negatives almost
> unprintable with cyanotype. So make sure that's not the reason first.
> Can you try printing a non-pyro negative?
>
> Good luck.
> Sam
>
>
>
>
> On Feb 18, 2006, at 9:40 AM, Susan Huber wrote:
>
> > Hi Sam,
> > Thank you for your response- I don't have a step tablet and don't know
> > where
> > to get one here.
> > If a negative doesn't print out weell, what would a step tablet tell
> > me?
> > That the steps are not exposed enough?
> > The stain in my pyro are not much... most of them look brownish and;
> > lately
> > I have been using Pyro-Cat which is better in that I can use more
> > processes
> > with the developer.
> > I have never been able to get a real emerald stain from the Pyro- (I
> > use the
> > formulary formula) and have hard water with a filter.
> > Hope to hear from you soon,
> > Susan
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "sam wang" <stwang@clemson.edu>
> > To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
> > Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 6:17 PM
> > Subject: Re: Cyanotype
> >
> >
> >>
> >> On Feb 17, 2006, at 7:56 PM, Susan Huber wrote:
> >>
> >>> Hi David,
> >>> I recently mixed a batch of cyanotype of the green type ( I used the
> >>> brown
> >>> type 20 years ago and last year used the 'new'Ware solution which was
> >>> difficult to mix. The green brushes on greener than the brown and the
> >>> War'es
> >>> soluttions did... I mixed the classic ala C. Jamesas per his book
> >>> which has
> >>> a lot more Fe.Ammonic and Ferricyanide solution than the 'old' one of
> >>> the W.
> >>> Crawford's formula. The prints were very bleached even after 30
> >>> minutes
> >>> under the UV printer. I used the sun last year and did better with
> >>> the
> >>> Ware
> >>> solution. 20 years ago I was on city water- I am on my hard water
> >>> (well
> >>> water) and wonder why nothing looks good?
> >>> I can't afford to waste materials as I have to get them form the
> >>> States. (I
> >>> live in Canada).
> >>> Do you have an idea what is wrong- I do dev. the negatives in Pyro-
> >>> and 20
> >>> years ago- I didn't...
> >>> Thanks, Susan
> >>> www.susanhuber.com
> >>
> >> Susan,
> >>
> >> Stain from pyro make the negatives "bullet-proof". Your problem may
> >> not
> >> be chemistry or the water.
> >>
> >> I would suggest using a step-tablet instead of a negative and see what
> >> the result looks like.
> >>
> >> Sam
> >>
> >
> >
>
Received on Sun Feb 19 11:26:25 2006