U of S | Mailing List Archive | alt-photo-process-l | Re: Anybody experimented with Argyrotypes?

Re: Anybody experimented with Argyrotypes?



Paul, have you tried a surfactant? (Tween or something like that. Never
did for Argrotypes but I was using Ilfotol w/o any negative effects for
Classic Cyanotypes.) Any sensitizer with AFC will have difficulties in
soaking into the paper, maybe you were experiencing just that? (Indicated
by loosing image - if it's in the form of bleeding that is...) Were you
using a hair dryer à la platinum / kallitype? It's best to let the paper
in peace after coating for at least 10 minutes, to let the sensitizer soak
in.

All above in case of loosing image due bleeding. Which paper was that BTW?

Sam, were you diluting 1:1 or adding distilled water to make the coating
solutions volume 2x? For instance if your nominal coating soln. amnt. for
8x10" is 3ml you were using 1.5ml sensitizer + 1.5ml water or was that 3ml
sensitizer + 3ml water? If the latter maybe the extra water was helping
the coating solution penetrate into the paper. If the former than that is
a very interesting and useful piece of information!

Regards,
Loris.


21 Nisan 2009, Salı, 6:19 pm tarihinde, Paul Viapiano yazmış:
> ...
> PS...actually you know the biggest problem I have is in the first water
> bath clearing. I lose so much of the image here, even if I use distilled
> water or add an acidic factor, unless I get it out of there in 10 seconds
> or so...
>
>
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: sam wang
>   To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
>   Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 7:30 AM
>   Subject: Re: Anybody experimented with Argyrotypes?
>
>
>   You might try diluting it 1:1 with water. It seems to work a lot better
> with most papers that way and DMax does not seem to be any lower.
> However, with good papers such as COT 320, it may be a lot easier to fix
> and wash thoroughly, and the tones are more smooth. For a cheap paper,
> Crane's Weston works reasonably well.
>
>
>   Sam
>
>
>   On Apr 20, 2009, at 6:16 PM, Paul Viapiano wrote:
>
>
>     Yes...paper, paper, paper is so important. In fact, I will venture to
> say that MOST papers do NOT work with this process in any satisfactory
> way...
>
>     (hello...bitter...party of one?)
>
>     Paul
>
>     PS...did a previous post/reply from me on this subject get posted
> here? It never showed up on my end...hmmm
>
>
>
>       ----- Original Message -----
>       From: fernando cruz florez
>       To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
>       Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 2:44 PM
>       Subject: Re: Anybody experimented with Argyrotypes?
>
>
>       My negatives are quite high-contrast as it is so it sounds perfect.
> Thanks so much for the all advice. I'll write again once I've had a
> chance to test it all out.
>
>
>       Thaks again,
>
>
>       Fernando Cruz
>
>       --
>       Fotografía y diseño.
>       Fernando Cruz Florez
>       Para ver mi portafolio entre a:
>
>       fernandocruz.fotografiacolombiana.com
>       www.fotografiacolombiana.com
>
>       http://www.flickr.com/photos/cgcentrodelaimagen/
>       http://www.elangelcaido.org/muestras/2008/200812fcruz/200812fcruz.html
>
>       facebook  fernandocruzf@gmail.com
>       skype fernandocruzflorez
>       telefono 57 1 3232287
>       movil 57 3108686025
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>       2009/4/20 Loris Medici <mail@loris.medici.name>
>
>         You need pretty contrasty negatives for Argyrotype. Much more
> contrasty
>         than what you'd need for silver gelatin. If your negatives are
>         exposed/developed for s/g printing, I'm afraid you won't be able
> to get
>         nice contrasty/punchy Argyrotypes. (AFAIK, there's some contrast
> control
>         with the chemistry but I'm not sure if that will suit negatives
> optimized
>         for s/g printing.)
>
>         I don't think they're necessarily more stable than any other
> process
>         giving colloidal silver image on plain paper - as long as the
> images are
>         correctly processed/thoroughly cleared. Especially so when you
> choose to
>         tone your images with noble metals.
>
>         I had good results with Bergger COT 320 paper (the only paper I
> had used
>         for making Argyrotypes). As a rule of thumb, any paper that
> doesn't give
>         problems with New Cyanotype is also good for Argyrotypes. Search
> the web /
>         list archives for paper information.
>
>         If you extremely value image stability (and need the extra
> protection)
>         then you should definitely tone your Argyrotypes (or
>         Vandykes/Kallitypes/Salt Prints) with gold, platinum or palladium.
> But be
>         aware that toning for extra longevity comes with the price of
> changing the
>         original color of the image.
>
>         Regards,
>         Loris.
>
>
>         20 Nisan 2009, Pazartesi, 11:30 pm tarihinde, fernando cruz florez
> yazmıÅ&#65533;:
>
>         > Thanks again for the quick response...
>         > I have some negatives in black and white which I want to use for
> an
>         > exhibition using this technique (Argyrotype). I've read a couple
> of books
>         > which suggest that this process is more stable than a couple of
> other
>         > processes I was considering. Since you've experimented with this
> process
>         > are
>         > there any particular paper types (brands?) which you'd recommed?
>         >
>         > I will have to mix the chemicals myself since they're not
> available
>         > pre-made
>         > here in Colombia.
>         >
>         > I have some experience with the Bichromate Gum process from when
> I worked
>         > in
>         > Arte 2 Grafico (an artisanal/crafts workshop -
> http://artedos.com/ ) but
>         > this is the first time I'm experimenting with this particular
> process and
>         > the stability/longevity of the images to be used for the
> exhibition is
>         > very
>         > important.
>         >
>         > Any other advice would be very welcome and greatly appreciated.
>         >
>         > Sincerely,
>         >
>         > Fernando Cruz
>         >
>         > --
>         > Fotografía y diseño.
>         > Fernando Cruz Florez
>         > Para ver mi portafolio entre a:
>         >
>         > fernandocruz.fotografiacolombiana.com
>         > www.fotografiacolombiana.com
>         >
>         > http://www.flickr.com/photos/cgcentrodelaimagen/
>         > http://www.elangelcaido.org/muestras/2008/200812fcruz/200812fcruz.html
>         >
>         > facebook  fernandocruzf@gmail.com
>         > skype fernandocruzflorez
>         > telefono 57 1 3232287
>         > movil 57 3108686025
>         >
>         >
>         >
>         >
>         > 2009/4/20 Loris Medici <mail@loris.medici.name>
>         >
>         >> Fernando, I did. What exactly do you want to know?
>         >>
>         >> The first thing to mention is that it's a very picky process
> when it
>         >> comes
>         >> to paper choices; you have to use the best and purest papers.
>         >>
>         >> Also, it's better to tone the image in gold before fixing, if
> you value
>         >> longevity that is; colloidal silver in paper is pretty
> vulnerable... And
>         >> the color + darkness is beautiful that way. (Pt or Pd toning
> also is
>         >> possible, but, personally, I got best results with gold.)
>         >>
>         >> It's pretty easy to mix the solution - definitely more complex
> than
>         >> Vandykes (if you have to compound silver oxide yourself) but
> not a big
>         >> deal. Mix a volume enough for a couple of months (not longer
> than 5-6
>         >> months), the solution will deteriorate and silver out as time
> passes.
>         >>
>         >> Regards,
>         >> Loris.
>         >>
>         >>
>         >> 20 Nisan 2009, Pazartesi, 2:41 am tarihinde, fernando cruz
> florez
>         >> yazmıÅ&#65533;:
>         >> > ...
>         >> > I was wondering if there's anybody out there who's worked
> with
>         >> Argyrotypes
>         >> > willing to share their experiences and tips/tricks for the
> process.
>         >> > ...
>         >>
>         >
>
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